MIL-DTL-29397B(MC)
3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The jackets shall be
manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,
seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor
is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as
listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to
manufacture the jackets.
3.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitchings. The stitch, seam, and
stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to
FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in
Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All
overedge stitching and serging shall be done on serging machines
with knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge
without cutting the material.
3.6.1.2. Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams
and stitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line
of stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall
be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous
line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.
Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break not less than
1/2 inch.
3.6.2 Shade marking. The component parts of each jacket cut
from one piece of the wool and lining material, including pairs
of sleeve linings and underarm shields when not cut from ends,
shall be shade marked to ensure uniform shade and size throughout
the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:
a.
Corrosive metal fastening devices.
b.
Sew-on shade tickets.
c.
Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave
traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of
the tickets.
3.6.3 Fusing operations. The fusing operations for fusing the
fusible interlining specified in 3.3.6 to the basic material of
the outer shell specified in 3.3.1 shall be performed on a fusing
press. Specific settings (see 6.5) for the particular fusible
style and press to be used should be obtained from the supplier
of the fusible material so that the optimum results can be
obtained.
TABLE I.
Manufacturing requirements.
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