MIL-DTL-82122D(MC)
Manufacturing requirements - Continued.
TABLE I.
SEAM/
STCH
STCH
BOB/
NO
OPERATION
TYPE
TYPE STCH/IN
NDL
LPR
7
Assemble ornamental top collar and
under collar.
Finished appearance. The collar
shall be uniform in appearance and
shall finish smooth and flat without
twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or
raw edges of top (outer) and sides
(ends). The felling shall not be too
tight or loose and the top collar
material at top (outer) and side
edges (ends) shall be securely caught
in the zig-zag and felling stitches
along the top (outer) and side edges
(ends) of the under collar. The
eyelets shall be well worked with the
purling on the outside of collar, and
shall finish with a 1/8 inch diameter
opening with the purled edge away
from the opening. Edges and corners
shall be smooth, flat and uniformly
even.
a. Mark ornamental top collar on its
underside in accordance with the
shape of pattern.
b. Position ornamental top collar
301
LSa-1
6-8
A
A
between the under collar and
(silk)
interlining with the top (outer) edge
of the ornamental top collar abutting
the under collar with interlining
notches aligned. Seam top collar to
interlining with a 3/16 inch lap
seam.
c. Join ornamental top collar to
304
LSa-1
8-10
A
A
under collar at top edge with zig-zag
or
stitching, distributing the fullness
Hand
8-10
C
between the notches. The zig-zag
(silk)
stitching shall extend to
approximately 3/4 inch from each side
edge (end) of the collar.
d. Turn ornamental top collar to the
101
outside over the top (outer) edge of
interlining. Baste along the top
(outer) edge and along the breakline
with the fullness placed between the
two rows of basting stitches.
Basting shall extend to approximately
1-1/2 inches from the side edges
(ends).
13
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